Animal and Plant Motif Jewelry Appearing at Public Auctions

JAR's Pansy Rings set with colored stones and diamonds on silver and gold, shows the use of pavé-set tiny colored stones forming a carpet of tiny colored gemstones, with a gradation of color from the subtle to the vivid.

Considering each of the five Pansy rings in the image below clockwise from top left :-

Pansy Ring 1 - Designed in 2009, is set with green garnets of various shades and diamonds mounted on silver and gold.
Pansy Ring 2 - Designed in 2009, is set with rubies, pink sapphires, black spinels, green garnets and diamonds on silver and gold.
Pansy Ring 3 - Designed in 2011, is set with garnets, sapphires, spinels and diamonds mounted on silver, gold and platinum.
Pansy Ring 4 - Designed in 2010, is set with emeralds, demantoid garnets, spinels and diamonds mounted on silver and gold.
Pansy Ring 5 - Designed in 2012, is set with sapphires, garnets, tourmalines, chrysoberyls, spinels, citrines and diamonds mounted on silver, platinum and gold.

Another brooch designed in 1989 by JAR, as three stylized leaves pavé-set with emeralds, peridots, garnets, citrines and zircons, also show a gradation in color from yellow to yellowish-green, and light-green to vivid green. The scrolling stem centering upon a cushion-shaped emerald is pavé-set with diamonds, mounted in platinum and gold. The lot appeared at Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels Sale held on November 12, 2013. A pre-sale estimate of US$511,565 - $718,367 was placed on the lot which sold much above the upper estimate for US$1,181,346.

Out of the six Animal and Plant Motif jewelry lots that appeared at Christie's New York Rockefeller Plaza, Jewels : The New York Sale held on April 22, 2009 and highlighted by Mikegem on August 29, 2014, the lot that realized the highest price of US$86,500 at the auctions was Lot 161 - A Pair of Diamond and Black Diamond Hedgehog Ear Clips designed by JAR. What are the possible reasons for the high price recorded by the JAR jewel ?

The quality of his jewelry using a combination of colored gemstones and diamonds, with an almost invisible pavé-setting, mounted on a dark metal alloy, highlighting the color of the gems, and the use of plant and animal motifs is undoubtedly the primary reason for the popular demand for his jewelry. This fact combined with the designers unconventional methods, such as his scorn for modern marketing techniques, had served to enhance the demand for his jewelry.

Some of the factors that had served to enhance the demand for his jewelry are :-

1) Limited production - producing only about 100 to 120 jewelry pieces every year.
2) Laying emphasis on the quality of the jewels produced rather than on the quantity.
3) Refusing to adopt conventional marketing methods such as advertizing, showcasing of products, and maintaining regular opening hours.

The cult-like following enjoyed by the designer combined with the limited production and unconventional methods had served to increase the demand for JAR's jewelry to unprecedented levels, making such jewels the most sought-after at public auctions. This explains the highest price recorded by the Pair of Diamond and Black Diamond Hedgehog Ear Clips designed by JAR out of the six plant and animal motif lots that appeared at the Christie's New York Rockefeller Plaza, Jewels : The New York Sale held on April 22, 2009. The staggering US$1,181,346 recorded by a JAR jewel highlighted by sunil above, designed in 1989 as three stylized leaves pavé-set with emeralds, peridots, garnets, citrines and zircons at a Christie's auction in Geneva on November 12, 2013, serves to further strengthen this fact.

At least four Animal and Plant Motif Jewelry Lots appeared at Christie's London, South Kensington, Jewels At South Kensington Sale, held on April 7, 2009. These lots are Lot 3, Lot 136, Lot 138 and Lot 140. These lots except for Lot 136 were designed by unknown designers and did not make much of an impression at the auctions. Yet these lots are worth considering in detail due to the artistic excellence of these pieces.

Lot 3 - Pre-sale estimate - US$1,492 - $2,238 Price realized - US$3,680
Lot 136 - Pre-sale estimate - US$2,984 - $4,476 Price realized - US$4,048
Lot 138 - Pre-sale estimate - US$2,984 - $3,730 Price realized - US$4,048
Lot 140 - Pre-sale estimate - US$1,790 - $2,238 Price realized - US$2,208

Lot 3 - is an antique "Victorian Diamond Bird Brooch" designed in the Late Victorian Period around 1890. The brooch is designed as a pavé-set diamond swallow with cabochon-ruby-set eyes, mounted on a pavé-set diamond crescent moon.

Lot 136 - is a "Diamond, Coral and Emerald Owl Brooch - by Gübelin," signed with the maker's mark for Gübelin. The brooch is designed as a stylized wirework owl perched on a branch of a tree made of yellow-gold. The body of the bird and head is covered with navette-shaped coral feathers, so are two leaves of the branch. Each of the eyes are set with pave-set diamonds and a single cabochon-cut emerald.

Lot 138 - is a "Set of Three Diamond and Gem Bee Brooches" - Each of the bees is set with calibre-cut blue sapphires, rubies or emeralds in addition to diamonds.The abdomen of the bee is set with calibre-cut colored gemstone and diamond. The thorax is set as a cluster of colored gemstone center and diamond surround. The eyes are set with cabochon-cut rubies. The wings are set with diamonds and the legs of yellow-gold wire.

Lot 140 - is a "Colored Diamond and Sapphire Butterfly Brooch" - The thorax and abdomen of the butterfly is pavé-set with brown diamonds. The eyes are set with blue sapphires. The antenna made of yellow-gold is set with a brown diamond at its distal end. The wings are pavé-set with blue sapphires, and the borders and veins in the wing pavé-set with brilliant-cut brown diamonds. The rear wing terminals are pavé-set as clusters of brown diamonds.

Lot 136, "A Diamond, Coral and Emerald Owl Brooch" a signed jewel by Gübelin performed only moderately at the auctions despite its impeccable credentials. Are there any possible reasons for its moderate showing ?

The main reason for the moderate showing of Gübelin's piece is the relatively cheap material used in the brooch, viz. pink precious coral, Corallium rubrum. White diamonds and emeralds are used only in the eyes of the owl. The entire body and head of the owl are covered with navette-shaped pink coral feathers.
It is important to note that the moderate price of US$4,048 realized by this relatively cheap brooch, was undoubtedly due the prestigious name of Gübelin being associated with it.

At every public auction at least a few "Animal and Plant Motif Lots" are featured and make a reasonable showing. In keeping with this expectation, at Christie's Jewels at South Kensington Sale held in London, South Kensington on May 14, 2009, five Animal and Plant Motif Lots were featured. These lots are 12, 13, 18, 63, 104.

Lot 12 - A Ruby, Diamond and Onyx Novelty Brooch - by Gazdar. Pre-sale estimate US$1,068 - $1,525. Price realized - US$1,321.
Lot 13 - A Citrine and Synthetic Gem Brooch and Matching Earclips - Pre-sale estimate US$458 - $610. Price realized - US$661.
Lot 18 - Two Gem Novelty Brooches - Pre-sale estimate - US$763 - $1,068. Price realized - US$944.
Lot 63 - A Diamond and Enamel Brooch - Pre-sale estimate - US$763 - $1,068. Price realized - US$793.
Lot 104 - Two Antique Ivory and Pearl Pendants and a Gold and Seed Pearl Galleon Brooch - Pre-sale estimate US$915 - $1,220. Price realized US$7,173

Lot 12 - The novelty brooch designed by Gazdar, the Mumbai-based jewelers is modelled as a stylized wading bird; the body made of yellow-gold collet-set with circular-cut rubies; the long leg and feet also made of yellow-gold, and the feet set with calibre-cut rubies; the head and beak of the bird also made of yellow-gold, the eyes set with a circular-cut black onyx, with a circular-cut white diamond mounted in the center.

Lot 13 - The unknown designer has designed the brooch as a stylized vase of flowers, with a rectangular cut-cornered citrine vase; the stem and leaves of the foliage made of yellow-gold and set with an emerald and varicolored synthetic gem accents, representing fruits.
The matching pair of earclips are also designed as stylized vases of flowers, with oval-shaped citrine vases, the yellow-gold foliage similarly set with a circular-cut emerald and red and white circular-cut synthetic gem accents.

Lot 18 - Out of the two novelty brooches, one is modelled as two birds perched on a branch; the stem, feathers and head of the bird made of yellow-gold; the head with ruby accents; the body made of cabochon beads; and the stem/branch mounted with two circular-cut blue sapphires and circular-cut diamond representing buds.
The second novelty brooch is modelled as two cats sitting close to one another; an oval-cut turquoise with its long axis parallel to the vertical, represents the body of each cat; another oval-cut turquoise with its long axis parallel to the horizontal, represents the head of each cat; the whiskers, eyes, covering of the head and the tails made of yellow-gold; and the eyes set with rubies.

Lot 63 - The unknown designer of the diamond and enamel brooch, has modelled the brooch as a stylized fox, wearing a pave-set diamond coat; a transluscent green enamel cloak; blue and green enamel trousers; and brown enamel shoes. The head, hands and tail are made of yellow gold; the eyes are represented by white enamel with a diamond in the center.

Lot 104 - Only the images of the two antique ivory and pearl pendants are given in the Christie's lot finder. The image of the 19th-century gold and seed pearl galleon brooch is not given.
One pendant made of a carved ivory dog, wearing a gold collar with the enamelled legend "Eidelta" and two seed pearl accents, is suspended by a pearl and belcher-link chain, from a late 19th-century pearl single stone dress pin, the two ends of the chain connected to the pin by an emerald and enamel panel spacer.
The secondant pendant made up of a smaller carved ivory horse, is suspended by a single pearl and belcher-link from an enamel bird design suspension which in turn is suspended from another pearl single stone dress pin. The two dress pins are joined by a link chain. The antique ivory and pearl pendants are probably of early 18th-century origin.
The 19th-century gold and seed pearl galleon brooch, is modelled as a galleon with seed pearl sails and white enamel hull, suspending a pearl drop fringe.

The animal and plant motif jewelry lots highlighted by gemlite are indeed exceptional, with unique design features, mostly created by unknown designers. However, three of the lots achieved only a price of less than a thousand US dollars, and one lot slightly above a thousand US dollars (USD1,321). One lot however - Lot 104, Two Antique Ivory and Pearl Pendants and a Gold and Seed Pearl Galleon Brooch - registered a relatively high price of US$7,173. What might have been the cause for the exceptional showing of this antique jewelry lot ?

The answer to your question Joan seems to be inherent in the wording of your question. The main reason for the exceptional showing of this lot appears to be its antique origin dating back to the early 18th-century. The use of ivory and natural pearls in the brooch, materials to which a premium value is attached is another reason for the exceptional performance of the lot, realizing over USD 7,000 when compared to the other four brooches which registered an average price of around USD 1,000.

Apart from Lot 38, titled A Pair of Gem Set Lion Brooches, by Van Cleef & Arpels that appeared at Christie's "Jewels : The London Sale" held on June 10, 2009 and highlighted by gemlite on August 26, 2014, seven other "Animal and Plant Motif Jewelry" lots featured at the same auction. These Lots are :- 8, 33, 51, 62, 79, 119 and 165.

Lot 8 - A Diamond Bird Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels; Estimate - US$4,848 - $6,464; Price realized - US$16,350.
Lot 33 - A Diamond and Ruby Elephant Brooch - Estimate - US$9,696 - $12,928; Price realized - US$12,263.
Lot 51 - A Diamond-Set KIngfisher Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. - Estimate - US$2,909 - $4,040; Price-realized - US$9,810.
Lot 62- A Turquoise, Ruby and Diamond Bird Brooch by Cartier - Estimate - US$2,424 - $3,232; Price realized - US$8,584.
Lot 79 - A Diamond and Gem-Set Elephant Brooch by Charlton - Estimate - US$8,080 - $12,928; Price realized -US$26,569.
Lot 119 - An Antique Diamond Dragonfly Brooch - Estimate - US$19,392 - $24,240. Price realized - US$24,525.
Lot 165 - A Pair of Art Deco Diamond Bird Brooches - Estimate - US$8,080 - $12,928 - Price realized - US$13,898.

A short description of the above brooches are given below :-

Lot 8 - The Diamond Bird Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels is modelled as a pavé-set diamond bird, mounted on platinum; the eye collett-set on yellow-gold with a cabochon emerald; the beak and claws of the bird and the branch on which it is perched also made of yellow gold. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels.

Lot 33 - The Diamond Elephant Brooch designed around 1930 by an unknown designer, is pavé-set throughout with rows of circular-cut diamonds, except for the eye set with a circular-cut ruby. Total weight of the diamonds not known as it is not possible to dismount the diamonds from the setting.

Lot 51 - Modelled as two bird brooches of different sizes, the larger bird brooch 8.5cm in height and the smaller one 4.0 cm high. The larger bird perched on a branch made of yellow-gold, is pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds on the beak and neck. The body is covered with textured gold feathers and the eye is collett-set with a navette-shaped ruby.
The smaller bird brooch also perched on a yellow-gold branch is covered with textured gold feathers. Only the head of the bird is pavé-set with diamonds and the eyes are collett-set with navette-shaped rubies. The larger brooch is signed as Van Cleef & Arpels.

Lot 62 - The Cartier Turquoise, Ruby and Diamond Bird Brooch designed by Cartier London around 1960, is modelled as a kingfisher with cabochon turquoise body, with textured yellow-gold feathers, perched on a branch also made of yellow-gold. The eye is collett-set with a triangular-shaped ruby and the feathers on the head are set with white diamonds. The piece is signed Cartier London.

Lot 79 - The Diamond and Gem-Set Elephant Brooch by Charlton designed in the 1950s, is pavé-set all over with circular-cut diamonds. The saddle is set with calibre-cut rectangular-shaped rubies, with an oval-cut blue sapphire weighing 4.32 carats set at the center. The eye is set with navette-shaped black onyx. The brooch is signed as Charlton.

Lot 119 - The Antique Diamond Dragonfly Brooch designed around 1900 by an unknown French designer is undoubtedly a masterpiece of the Art Nouveau period, during which the use of plant and animal motif jewelry designs reached a climax. The head and body of the dragonfly is set with a series of graduated old and rose-cut diamonds. The extended wings are pavé-set with diamonds of various shapes and sizes, mounted in platinum and gold.

Lot 165 - A Pair of Art Deco Diamond Bird Brooches was designed by an unknown designer in the 1930s. The brooches are designed as two pavé-set diamond exotic birds perched on a baguette-cut diamond branch with curled tail feathers and coloured diamond eye detail, one seated contentedly, and the other preparing for flight.

Thanks AnitaP for your post. Some significant facts emerge from your post. The 7 lots highlighted by you appeared at the same auctions and hence are suitable for a comparative analysis. An analysis of the prices achieved clearly reveal the following :-

1) Signed pieces from reputed designers and jewelry houses performed exceptionally well at the auctions registering prices several folds above the upper estimate.
Lot 8 designed by Van Cleef & Arpels sold for US$16,350 which was 3.4 times the lower estimate and 2.5 times the upper estimate.
Lot 51, also designed by Van Cleef & Arpels sold for US$9,810, which was 3.4 times the lower estimate and 2.4 times the upper estimate.
Lot 62, designed by Cartier sold for US$8,584, which was 3.5 times the lower estimate and 2.7 times the upper estimate.
Lot 79 designed by Charlton sold for US$26,569, which was 3.3 times the lower estimate and 2.0 times the upper estimate.

2) Antique pieces were not only assigned a higher pre-sale estimate but also registered a price either within this estimate or slightly higher than the upper estimate.
Lot 33, designed around year 1930 during the Art Deco period, was not only assigned a higher estimate of US$9,696 - $12,928 but also registered a price within this estimate of US$12,263.
Lot 119, an Art Nouveau dragonfly brooch was also assigned a higher estimate of US$19,392 - $24,240 and registered a price slightly higher than the upper estimate of US$24,525.
Lot 165, a pair of Art Deco bird brooches was assigned a pre-sale estimate of US$8,080 - $12,928 and registered a price slightly higher than the upper estimate of US$13,898.

3) Lots set predominantly with diamonds, lots 33, 119 and 165 were assigned a higher estimate as expected and also sold within the estimate or slightly above the upper estimate.

4) The most significant escalation in price was seen in Lot 79, which sold for the highest price of US$26,569, a signed piece predominantly made up of diamonds and assigned a higher estimate of US$8,080 - $12,928. In this case it appears that factors 1 and 3 above had a bearing on the escalation of the estimated price, viz. the fact that the piece is a signed jewel by Charlton and the fact that the piece is predominantly set with diamonds.

Three animal motif lots appeared at Christie's Jewels : The Hong Kong Sale held on May 26, 2009. These lots are Lot 1505, Lot 1509, and Lot 1670.
Lot 1505 was a signed piece by Van Cleef & Arpels and was characterized as a Multigem Clip Brooch. In fact the brooch was designed as a humming bird with various colored gemstones and diamonds mounted on different parts of its body, such as the wings, tail, body, neck and head. The wings were set with an upper row of marquise-cut, cabochon turquoise and a lower row of marquise-cut, cabochon sapphires. Likewise, the tail was set with an upper row of marquise-cut cabochon sapphires, a middle row of marquise-cut, cabochon turquoise, and a lower row of circular-cut white diamonds set in marquise-shaped motifs. The body is set with circular-cut rubies and the neck with brilliant-cut white diamonds. The head is set with circular-cut sapphires, the eye collet-set with a marquise-cut ruby and the beak made of yellow gold. The brooch designed around 1960 was made of platinum and yellow gold. Being a signed jewel by a reputed jewelry house the lot was assigned a higher pre-sale estimate of US $23,330 - $36,292 and sold within this estimate for US$32,404.

Lot 1509 was another signed piece by Van Cleef & Arpels designed around the same period as lot 1505. The lot was titled A Chalcedony, Ruby and Diamond Clip Brooch and was designed as a textured 18k gold squirrel, with its body made up of a large green, oval-shaped, cabochon-cut, chrysoprase chalcedony. The eye of the squirrel is collet-set with a circular-cut ruby, further highlighted by five brilliant-cut diamonds. The lot was given a pre-sale estimate of US$3,111 - $4,536 and sold exactly at the upper estimated value of US$4,536.

Lot 1670 titled A Colored Diamond Pendant Necklace was another unique piece, with a yellow-gold chain necklace suspending a teddy bear pendant made up of colored diamonds only. The head of the teddy bear is set with heart-shaped, fancy brownish-pink diamond weighing 1.46 carats; the body set with cushion-shaped, fancy brown-pink diamond weighing 0.84 carats; and the articulated arms and legs set with pear-shaped pink diamonds, mounted in 18k yellow and rose gold. The lot was accompanied by GIA reports certifying the 4Cs of the diamonds with a total weight of 3.69 carats. The lot sold for US$35,644 above the estimated range of US$20,738 - 32,403.

The four factors highlighted above for the Christie's "Jewels : The London Sale," held on June 10, 2009, that had a bearing on the prices achieved, also applies equally well for the lots highlighted by Peter that appeared at Christie's Jewels : The Hong Kong Sale held on May 26, 2009.

Factor 1 - Signed pieces from reputed designers and jewelry houses - had a bearing on the price achieved by Lot 1505, a signed piece by Van Cleef & Arpels, assigned a higher pre-sale estimate of US $23,330 - $36,292 and selling within this estimate for US$32,404.

Factor 3 - Lots set predominantly with diamonds - had a bearing on the price achieved by Lot 1670, the teddy bear pendant, set entirely with colored diamonds. The lot sold for US$35,644 above the estimated range of US$20,738 - 32,403.

However, Lot 1509 - A Chalcedony, Ruby and Diamond Clip Brooch - even though a signed piece by Van Cleef & Arpels, was assigned a relatively low estimate of US$3,111 - $4,536 and was sold at the upper estimated value of US$4,536. The probable reasons for the lower estimate and the relatively low price achieved despite being a signed jewel by a reputed jewelry house are :-

1) The piece being made mainly of textured 18k gold.
2) The limited quantities of colored gemstones used on the piece, the main colored gemstone being a relatively cheap oval-shaped green chalcedony known as chrysoprase.
3) The five brilliant-cut diamonds surrounding the eye are the most expensive gemstones used on the piece.

At least eight plant and animal motif jewelry lots appeared at Christie's Jewels : The Geneva Sale held on May 13, 2009. These lots are 4, 8, 24, 25, 107, 114, 117, 120.
Lot 4 - A Turquoise, Diamond and Gold Tortoise Brooch, by Cartier. Price achieved - US$5,118. Estimated range - US$5,432 - $8,147.
Lot 8- An Emerald and Diamond Flower Bracelet - Price achieved - US$18,198. Pre-sale estimate - US$13,579 - $18,106.
Lot 24 - An Agate Cat Figure, by Faberge - Price realized - US$34,121. Pre-sale estimate - US$4,526 - $6,337.
Lot 25 - A Nephrite, Enamel and Gold Parasol Handle - Price realized - US$3,640. Pre-sale estimate - US$2,263 - $3,621.
Lot 107 - An Ebony, Sapphire And Diamond "Blackamoor" Brooch, by Codagnato - Price realized - US$18,198. Presale estimate -US$9,053 - $13,579.
Lot 114 - A Pair of Exquisite Ruby and Diamond Ear Clips, by Van Cleef & Arpels - Price achieved - US$65,968. Pre-sale estimate - US$22,632 - $27,158.
Lot 117 - An Elegant Mystery Set Sapphire And Diamond "Deux Feuilles" Brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Price realized - US$111,918. Pre-sale estimate - US$45,264 - $72,422.
Lot 120 - A Charming Mystery Set Ruby And Diamond Pavot Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels - Price achieved - US$133,756. Estimated range - US$81,475 - $108,633.